1) Prep: Fenders, Lines, Checklist

  • Fenders: Hang 2–3 on the docking side at rub-rail height; one near beam, one forward, one aft.
  • Lines: Bow, stern, and a mid-ship spring line pre-rigged and cleated, bitter end ready.
  • Tools: Boat hook ready; PFDs on small crew; gloves optional.
  • Helm: Trim set; wheel centered; brief the plan before turning toward the dock.

Practice pulses in open water: idle → in-gear 1–2s → neutral. Most of docking is in neutral.

2) Read Wind & Current (Pick Your Side)

Choose the side that lets wind/current push you on to the dock. If you must dock on the lee side, plan extra angle and speed control.

  • Use flags, ripples, and nearby boats to read set & drift.
  • Pick a target cleat where your mid-ship will stop.

3) Approach Plan & Angle (30–45°)

Come in at idle on a 30–45° angle toward your target cleat. Within a boat length, shift to neutral and let momentum carry you. A brief reverse burst checks speed and squares you up.

4) Control: In-Gear Bursts, Neutral, Pivot

  • Short forward/reverse pulses; avoid constant throttle.
  • Reverse pulls the stern in; use small wheel inputs.
  • If you drift off > half a beam, wave off and reset.

5) Crew Roles & Hand Signals

  • Assign mid-ship handler on the spring; bow/stern ready.
  • No jumping—step down only when stopped; never put hands/feet between boat and dock.
  • Use clear distance calls: “10… 5… 2.”

6) Tie-Up Order That Works

  1. Spring first: To a cleat ahead; hold light forward against it to pin alongside.
  2. Bow line: Cleat and snug.
  3. Stern line: Cleat with slight slack; adjust fenders last.

7) Depart, Wave-Offs & Tricky Scenarios

  • Spring line last; helm away; brief reverse pulse; ease out.
  • Crosswind off: more angle and hold with short forward pulses.
  • Crosswind on: flatter approach; early reverse to control closing speed.

New to docking? Start with confidence.

A quick estimate can help you choose upgrades (fenders/lines) without overspending.

Get My Instant Estimate